The Plantation Diaries

El Cuco

A few days ago, Adam and I were invited to visit the Hotel Mira Flores located at El Cuco beach. I had heard that El Cuco is one of El Salvador’s more beautiful beaches, so we grabbed our friend Will, and headed east. The ride was just under an hour and a half, or two plus if driving from the airport.

Ricardo, the proprietor, greeted us at the gate and gave us a tour. The hotel is small and intimate, sleeping only fifteen guests, making it perfect for a quiet weekend or family retreat. The rooms are simple, but clean, with air conditioning, bathrooms, and TV. They have a restaurant where we sampled the hamburgers and carne asada. Lunch was met with hearty approval from Adam and Will. The rooms are $77 a night which is about the norm for the smaller boutique hotels along the ocean.

The property is perched high above the beach on a cliff with beautiful views. The beach is reached by a narrow stairway with about 75 steps. Plan your beach gear carefully if you don’t want to be running up and down the stairs all day!

Will headed off for a walk while Adam claimed half of the beach to draw his initials. I headed straight for the water which is quickly reaching the high 70's as the warmer months approach. We were in our element to have to the beach to ourselves. Aside from a few seagulls, there was no one in sight.

 

After lunch, I retired to a hammock with a good book, while the boys played a few hands of poker. We were lost in a lazy afternoon unaware of the passing of time. Ricardo came by and asked if we were planning on spending the night. Realizing the late hour, we grabbed our gear and headed home.

Last Friday was payday here on the finca. My payroll at the moment is a grand total of $477 every two weeks. That covers six full-time men, and Juana, the housekeeper. Don Beto, Don Mario, and Juana all had birthdays last week, so Adam brought a cake home on Friday to celebrate after we handed out the pay.

A cake, for the workers, is a special treat and not something that would even be considered normally. It’s just too expensive. I asked Don Beto a few months ago for a list of birthdays so I could start the tradition of acknowledging their special day. Having three birthdays in one week certainly makes things easier. I had the bakery write all three names on the cake and they were delighted the minute they saw it. I placed three candles on the cake and told them to make their wish. Don Beto asked for rain. Don Mario asked for more birthdays, and Juana asked for more energy to keep up with her children.

After everyone went home, Don Meme’s two boys arrived on their horse Bruno full of pep and mischief. They wanted their pictures taken on Bruno and in return, I asked them if we could take our own pictures on Bruno. The boys said yes, for a quarter. I indulged them while Adam climbed on Bruno. “Mom hurry up and take the picture so I can get off this horse.”

Speaking of horses, we are going horse shopping tomorrow in the town of Ozatlan. I have been trying to buy a horse here in Tecapan for the last two months. I am told a simple finca horse good for short daily rides should run no more than $80-100. Several horses have been paraded up to the finca for my inspection, but when it comes to the price, I am presented with inflated gringo rates. The highest to date, was $600 for a temperamental creature with protruding ribs. I also have a sneaking suspicion that the guys working here on the finca are not terribly anxious for me to acquire a horse. That would mean I could get around the finca quite easily and find out what they are up to.

They do a great job and are all wonderful, but I have noticed a distinct difference on the few occasions I have suddenly appeared on the field during the day. The tempo increases and everyone beefs up their effort. So in order to make myself more mobile, a horse is a necessity. My friend Santiago knows a family in Ozatlan that breeds horses and will negotiate the deal for me. Finca horse do not wear shoes, saddles, or require special food. They simply graze and prefer bareback riders. While bareback is certainly a novelty, I think I can splurge on a saddle. I should have a naming contest. Something inspirational to keep me on that long path ahead. I’m taking suggestions.

Beachtime

Arriving in El Salvador by air is still considered a fairly big event. By 5:30am, there are crowds of families standing outside the passenger terminal waiting for the early morning flights from the states. Entire families come out and wait patiently until their loved ones emerge from the tinted doorway, usually half hidden by enormous suitcases bearing gifts.

Adam came out wearing his Chicago cold weather clothes looking wonderful. I spotted him before he saw me and took a moment to enjoy the sight. He was down to his T-shirt by the time we got to the car in the parking lot. The change in temperature added to his fatigue of traveling for 16 hours. He managed to stay smiling though as we left the airport and headed to the beach.

I took him to Rancho Estero y Mar located on the beach of El Pimental, half an hour from the airport. It has become one of my favorite resorts to stay at, and I have sent many people there. They have just become certified as an eco-resort. It is a lush and curious property that was built around the natural landscape. If a tree was growing were a proposed deck was to go in, they simply built the deck around the tree. There are pathways and footbridges that meander in a maze-like path leading from one vista to another. One side of the property is bordered by mangroves and the other by the pacific. Whimsical sculptures hide behind palms and beckon you towards three waterfall pools. There a macaws, toucans, monkeys and alligators in open pens. Two of the monkeys have babies right now which cling to their mother’s neck. I would assume this is s sign of happy monkeys in captivity. One of the monkeys got a hold of a broom yesterday and entertained us by throwing it up and down and actually attempting to sweep with it.

Rebecca, the proprietor, gave me my favorite room. Before I could suggest we head to the beach, Adam was passed out on the bed. I left him to his slumber and returned at 1:30 in the afternoon. He woke in a daze, but I coaxed him downstairs for some lunch and time at the beach. We caught up on our news and wore silly grins. A flock of pelicans flew past us in perfect formation swooping down inches above the waves only to rise upwards in preparation for another dive. We marveled at their ability to synchronize with each other as though they were tied by an invisible thread. We watched them with envy as they flew into the distance.

The sunset was like none we had ever seen. The sun was such a deep shade of red, we thought there might some cataclysmic weather fast approaching. We were later told that a red sunset such as this is a sign of airborne particles after volcanic eruptions. This week, two active volcanoes in Guatemala, Santa Maria and Fuego, emitted ash plumes that have drifted throughout the region.

We retired shortly after sunset and Adam immediately fell to sleep while I had my way with the television. I have never been much for television and have not watched any in four months. The hotel had cable with every channel available. I was like a kid on Saturday morning. I didn’t know what to watch first as I was sucked into movie after movie, sometimes watching three at a time. Oh yes, I remember this, haven’t seen that one, this looks good, etc….I was up until the wee hours of the morning with the TV remote in one hand and the air conditioning remote in the other. It was a constant battle to find the right temperature for the room. The A/C unit was either on or off. On meant ice box temperatures after ten minutes, and off left you stifling after half an hour. By morning, I had a television hangover and didn’t remember a thing I had watched.

Living on the finca, I have become accustomed to waking up with the sun, so by 5am, I was up and ready. Adam of course, was fast asleep. I made a half hearted attempt to wake him but afraid he might bark, sat outside with a cup of coffee instead. By 8, I couldn’t stand it anymore. I jollied him out of bed and we headed down for breakfast. An hour later, we were on our way to the finca.

After meeting everyone and taking a short tour, he took another nap. He complained that the mosquitoes were getting him. I told him, they always go after fresh white meat like his as I covered him with repellent and made sure his mosquito net was secure around his new bamboo bed. He loved his new bed and by evening, the mosquitoes had moved on and left him in peace.

We drove to town to buy provisions that he recognized, like corn flakes and pancake mix. We stopped at few friends so I could show him off. Everyone seemed to know or have a daughter that they thought perfect for him. We have now been invited to several gatherings and he has been clearly earmarked as marriage material. I shall have to keep a close eye on any developments.

Returning to town tonight, I introduced him to William, who is a young man assigned here from the Peace Corp. They became instant friends as I though they might. A comrade for Adam, and a slice of home for Will. Alex, my uncle joined us at the pupusaria where we went for dinner. I left the boys to their own devices and drove home. They arrived here a few minutes ago to deliver Adam safely back to the finca. They looked a little sheepish and I wondered what mischief they had been up to.

Tomorrow, Adam and I are going in search of the lost ruins I mentioned a few weeks ago. We are going to see Santiago in the morning to make sure we have the right spot marked on the map. Santiago has also offered to take us on a hike to the top of one of the volcanoes here. I was surprised that my city boy was game for the three hour hike. Will also wants to come along, so I will have Juana prepare a proper picnic.

Adam is once again fast asleep. I forgot how much they like to sleep at this age. Awake or asleep, it’s enough just to have him here.