The Plantation Diaries

Sleeping Volcanoes

I discovered today, that one of the four volcanoes nearby is only asleep and not dormant as I had thought. I visited the town of Berlin with Lito, and some of his friends. He told me that there is a large Geothermal plant located just outside town with a restaurant. I was surprised to find not only a good restaurant where I had a real cappuccino (my first since arriving here in November), but also a naturally heated pool, and small sauna houses that are available for a small fee.

The plant supplies 24% of El Salvador's total energy production and produces 100 megawatts. The geothermal fields surrounding Vulcan Tecapa reach temperatures of 572 F. The area is peppered with giant pipes that transport the steam to the plant from the interior of the volcano. On a short walk around the property, I came upon several steaming and bubbling holes. It was a slightly unnerving to think of all that action taking place below my feet that is only about 15 kilometers away from La Finca. Lito told me the plant helps to release much of the pressure so Tecapa should remain asleep for years to come.

   

We spent the afternoon catching up on news, and everyone wants my bat tea compost recipe. I told them if it works, they can buy it from La Finca. When I pulled up to the finca gate today, there was a horse blocking my way. Don Samuel appeared and told me he had brought the horse for me to look at. I could have him for $100. I told him to bring the horse back when I returned. Buying a horse isn’t exactly an impulse buy, even at a $100.

I rushed home to help Evers finish up the planting of the gourds and melons as he had spent today (his day off) digging holes for me. I was tired, but since he had gone to so much trouble, I found the energy to get it done. He watched his usual Schwarzenegger movie again tonight. I think he watches the same one over and over.

The Meeting

For once, the manana syndrome was not in evidence today. I have found new meaning for the word, “patience” during my time here. I’m one of those people who likes to be on time, something my father instilled in me as a young child. My first year in El Salvador, I was confounded over and over again when people would show up an hour late or not at all. It nearly drove me back to the U.S. in sheer frustration. I have learned to relax these days and simply expect that an appointed time likely means an hour later.

Today, the families started showing up for the corn meeting an hour early. By 3pm, they are were all in attendance while Beto called out their names. I was going to hide inside due to the changes being made, but got up my courage and joined him.

Beto climbed on the back of a truck and began reviewing this past years problems followed by some new adjustments. Everyone now had to leave a one meter distance between their fields to allow for foot traffic and confusion about the division of parcels. Scheduling of the thresher had to be done a month in advance to avoid a panic at the last minute. He asked the families to stop bringing their cows with them as they had damaged some of the coffee plants. They could keep them in the vacant field inside the gate. 

He rewiewd the rules about burning the fields which met with a lot of grumbling and a few glares in my direction. Instead of pointing out the negative aspects to the soil and environment, Beto focused on last years fire which got out of control. That was something everyone understood.

He left my news for last. He pointed in my direction and said, “Nina Stephanie will be planting 6 acres this year. They will be located on the nearest available land to the hacienda. The employees of La Finca will come second, followed by all of you.” Everyone turned to look at me. I put on my most confident smile and stared back at Beto.

“You all must understand that La Finca has the right to plant their corn wherever they like, right?” Beto asked everyone. Silence. Beto continued in his best diplomatic fashion by suggesting that some of the available land on the other finca Santa Nita, had not been worked in a long time and would probably give a better yield. A few went for that one. Senor Luna whose patch is right by the gate said, “I was going to get a different plot anyway. That field is not good for anything.”

Beto spent the next two hours with each individual deciding where they were going to lease their parcels. We had one small stubborn group who continued to argue. Beto finally told them, they could look elsewhere. In the end, everyone is renting again. Beto and I quickly took care of the payroll so the boys could go home.

In case anyone is fretting over the economy or wishing they had received a raise or better Christmas bonus, think about this. The men who work for me earn $25 a week. Don Beto earns $150 a month, and my housekeeper who works 6 days a week, makes $80 a month. I know, I know, this is a different country, culture, and way of life that is impossible to compare to home. I am deep in the countryside where the majority of the population is very poor.

My time here always gives me a new appreciation for what I have. It also fosters a willingness to give back and somehow make a tiny difference in this place that even Google Earth can’t find on its’ own. The capital on the other hand, is like any metropolitan city with a vibrant nightlife, malls, restaurants, and mainstream hotels. But that is for another day.

I just drove into town to pick up a few things at Plateice’s market. When I walked up the steps, one of the men from the meeting was standing in the store complaining about La Finca. When he saw me, he scampered off. Plateice said the news had been traveling around town for the last hour. He told me not to worry. Most people understand and no one wants any trouble. He said, “You know how it is Nina Stephanie. We need something to talk about, and today you have been honored.” I left with my purchases wondering what the next few weeks will be like.